The Southern Cape is beautiful. Cool and wet in the winter, warm and dry in the summer, it's a paradise of a unique kind. Kelp, whales, dolphins add to a sea life rich and varied. Verdant mountain ranges - covered in a thick green mantle of indigenous and cultivated forest - form a spine that sweeps upwards towards the Eastern Cape.
The surf is best in Northerly or NW winds, with clean groundswells from far-off fronts.
Thanks to 'Spike' at Wavescape for the lowdown on the Surf Spots.
Victoria Bay (aka Vic Bay)
Home of the southern Cape surfer, Victoria Bay is a classic setup on a small scale. Nestling between steep hills that run into the ocean, this bay is probably only 150 metres wide. The right side of this little bay, an established holiday getaway for the fortunate few who have a house at the water's edge, is a point that produces perfect point break walls. The takeoff is right near a rock that sticks out the water. It then walls away from you and down a shallow line of rocks. The bigger waves angle further away from the rocks and into the middle of the beach. Best at 2-6' and glassy or offshore conditions. Vic Bay is about 40 minutes drive from Knysna, between Sedgefield and George. *****
Knysna
Gerickes Point
Just past Sedgefield, heading away from Knysna, lies a shale headland with a mini-left hand point break on the other side. It works in a moderate swell, and is the only spot in the area that works in a northeasterly onshore wind. It gets out-of-control very easily though on account of the very small point setup. Doesn't like anything over 4'. Provides fun and zippy hollow waves that break over volcanic rock. About a 20-minute walk from the car park. ****
Goukamma River Mouth
In light northerly winds, this spot fires on all cylinders. About 20 kms on the southern side of Knysna at the mouth of the Gouna river, the peaks here can be epic with the sand in the right place. The Goukamma River, with its deep rich red mineral colour from the forests and mountains of the southern Cape, trickles into the sea here. The ocean responds with superlative form. ****
Fish Boma
Just off the carpark facing Gouna river is a peak that breaks on the other side of a rocky outcrop. It needs a lowish tide and a northerly or northeasterly breeze. Locals get some good waves here, although a recent shark attack has virtually stopped all activity here.***
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Buffalo Bay Wildside
The stretch of coast on the exposed side of Buffalo Bay. It gets messy easily and can't handle too much swell, because it comes directly on to the beach here, often breaking on outside banks and closing out. However, on smaller days when there is little wind or a breeze from the northeast, a clean and powerful left breaks off a sand bank in the middle of the beach. Can get a bit rippy though. On rare occasion, a wedge breaks right in the corner on the right hand side of the beach. Locals say that its epic days have been over for some years, although there seems to be no reason why it shouldn't come back. ***
Buffalo Bay
A large bay near Knysna that's home to houses with funny names like Laat Waai (Go for it), Buckinham Pellis, Stokkiesdraai (Play Truant), Op die hoek (On the corner). There are a number of waves around Buffalo Bay. The point offers a fairly inconsistent righthander that needs an easterly tinge to the swell for it to break properly. Generally, the usual southwesterly swells hit the outside point and wrap into the bay, before reforming and breaking on the inner point. This is the common B-Grade South African point setup. However, when the swell is coming out of the southeast or east, they instantly become A-grade spots. Similar setups include Coffee Bay, Bruces Beauties and Seal Point. Buffalo Bay needs a westerly wind and anything from 3' to 8' swell. ****
Buffalo Bay Beach (Murphys)
A fun left and right peak can be found quite far down the beach from the point at Buffalo Bay. Gets a rip that tends to pull you to the left, towards a churny and shallow reef / sandbank. However, some really fun and hollow inside waves, as well as the occasional solid left on the outside, can make this spot worthwhile. Best in a low to pushing tide and light westerly winds. ****
The Heads
There is actually a surf spot just inside the Knysna Heads, believe it or not. A small group of locals ride it quite often. It's a must for the low tide. With a solid swell running outside the cliffs, the sand bars here gladly accept fun and hollow 3'-4' waves. The fun is tempered with the knowledge that you have to paddle all the way across the channel to the other side, often when the tide is pushing in through the heads. Incidentally, the Knysna Heads are only one of two places in the world where vessels won't be insured by Lloyds shipping agents. This adds a bit more spice to a daring dash across the channel. ***
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Plettenberg Bay
Robberg
The break at Robberg, the protruding headland at Plett, needs a southeasterly swell to break. It's a combination of rocks and sand. Robberg is pretty inconsistent, but gets fairly good occasionally. ***
The Wreck
Not to be confused with the Wedge (below), the Wreck is also a wedge, but with a lot more going for it, when it breaks that is. Not as consistent, but a much longer ride and better form. The Wreck is in the corner just on the east side of Robberg. Has similarities with Dunes - which probably makes it the best beach break wave around Plett. Does need a monster swell to wrap in, or a more southerly or southeasterly swell. Waves bounce off the peninsula and peak off the wreck forming wicked A-frame barrels. ****
The Wedge
In sight of a large tourist hotel (the Beacon Isle) built on an outcrop of rocks in Plettenberg Bay, the Wedge breaks on the sand close to shore in the left corner of the beach. It gets insanely hollow and powerful for it's size. Swells bounce off some rocks and head parallel to the beach to bump into other oncoming swells, creating the wedge. Not all the waves wedge up in this way. However, if they don't, it usually means a closeout because the wave breaks too close to shore and is not really depending on a particular sandbank to break. A short but zippy little barrel can provide lots of fun in the right conditions, low tide and a clean 3'-4' swell. ****
Lookout Beach
Lot's of people surf here. One often wonders why. This spot, the main beach at Plett, lacks real power and closes out more often than not. At certain times of the year, it seems to improve quite dramatically. The sand shifts, the swell comes in cleanly, the wind eases further to the west. It then becomes a fun diversion, but with classic surf spots nearby, it's not the most alluring of temptations. Apparently there are some good waves further down the beach near the river mouth, often just a small channel between the lagoon and the sea. ****
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Keurbooms
This glassy beachbreak, inhabited by a superlative group of friendly common dolphins, is one of the gems of this coastal area. However, you've got to polish it up quite a lot first. Patience pays at Keurbooms, on the way out of Plett and heading towards J-Bay. It's extremely sensitive to wind, even when it's offshore. Best time is early in the morning on a mid tide pushing, with a clean 4'-5' swell, or on the high tide itself. Can be a bit rippy between tides, with the surge pulling you on to the righthand bank, away from the lefts. The left works on a lowish tide and the right needs a high tide. Keurbooms has similarities with Natal beachbreaks in this sense. Getting in the water here can be a religious experience. Glassy tubes, water as clear as liquid glass and a school of playful dolphin hanging around to make sure at least a few waves are ridden. I give it five stars because I love the place. It doesn't always turn on though, and has a reputation of being sharky. *****
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EASTERN CAPE
This area is the soul of surfing in South Africa. A land of aloes, dolphins, perfect points and classic reefs. The area around Cape St Francis, Jeffreys Bay and Port Elizabeth is part of the Eastern Cape. However, it's totally unique. The quality of the waves makes it worthy of a special mention. Flanked by mountains to the northwest and the ocean to the southeast, this coastline is the transition between the southern Cape and the eastern Cape. The coast is beginning to curve towards the northeast, rather than travelling due east.
The landscape is flat and dryish between the sea and the mountains. Vegetation is characterised by aloes, fleshy sour figs (good for jellyfish stings), Cape fynbos and shrubland. Distant views of steely blue mountains and the vast bays that characterise Jeffreys Bay and Algoa Bay, make for beautiful landscapes. A glassy afternoon at Supers can be a divine experience, especially when the dolphins make their appearance, darting in and out of the waves right next to you; showing us what true soul surfing is all about.
Oyster Bay
A fickle, exposed beachbreak. The sand shifts and it's sensitive to wind. Best in light N-NE winds and a clean medium sized groundswell (3-5'). **
Seal Point
Seal Point, or "Seals", with its landmark lighthouse, is a point with two distinct sections: an outside and a fullstop rock, from where the inside breaks. The inside is a more common phenomenon, except during peak surfing season between April and September. The inside is a walling pointbreak on a mini-scale. It runs along a rock shelf for a good 80-100 metres. The outside gets classic, especially if the swell swings a little more to the east, rather than directly from the southwest (the most common swell direction along the east coast of South Africa). The swell often has to refract around the outside point before it hits Seals. It's still gets good though, even when this happens, and it's not uncommon to get waves that go all the way through, past the fullstop rock and down the point. This is about a 150 metre ride. ****
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Bruces
The clean, mean, green jewel of South Africa. There are a couple of misconceptions about Bruces. Firstly, it doesn't break that often, but does break at least 15 to 20 times a year. It's not as rare as has been made out. Secondly, when it's perfect does not mean it's a gentle hotdog wave. Far from it. This wave cranks down the point at Cape St Francis like a runaway steam train. When it grinds, it growls and spits. The drop at big Bruces is a stomach churner. And slotting into the gaping barrel is dice with thick, thudding lip metres from a jagged line of rocks. They're all the same depth. They're all a similar angle to the line of swell, creating that perfect consistency in movement. To feast your eyes on these grinding tubes is to see one of the wonders of the world! See you in the green room. *****
Cape St Francis
Some excellent peaks along the beach. Best in clean swell and light W-NW offshore breezes. Plenty hollow and grinding options, but needs enough SW swell to wrap into the bay, or some S or E direction in the swell. ****
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JEFFREYS BAY
Kitchen Windows
As you enter Jeffreys Bay, there are a number of spots surfed by locals and little by anyone else. Unless you spent a fair amount of time in Jay Bay, Kitchen Windows won't be on your itinerary. You'll probably spend most of your time salivating over the prospect of surfing Supertubes. In fact, you will go surfing in mushy two foot slop at Supers, oblivious to the fact that Kitchen Windows is cooking with clean 2-4' waves. *****
Magna Tubes
The reef slightly around the corner from Supers. In front of the Beach Hotel. Fast and hard-breaking. Closes out often, but otherwise perfect. Picks up much more swell than Supers. ****
Boneyards
Occy in his former heyday ruled this spot for extended periods of the surf season. To go right is to negotiate a hectically fast wall that barrels in varying sections towards the main takeoff zone at Supertubes. To make it through these sections, especially backhand, is a noble feat. It's even possible to take off at outside Boneyards, fly through some heartstopping barrels and exit right at Supertubes, then scream obscenities at the numerous jealous surfers trying to drop in on you. Boneyards works differently at different sizes. When it's generally flat, and there's hardly a ripple at Supers, Boneyards can get a few 3' waves. In these, and slightly bigger conditions, you can go left as well as right. *****
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Supertubes
Perhaps South Africa's longest and most consistently good wave, with power and quality, barring one or two pointbreaks in the Kei or West Coast. It has been ordained by the ocean deities as a surf mecca, to the continued disenchantment of the locals. They struggle to find a balance between the need for tourism and the need for uncrowded waves. Over the years, it has become a circus during the surf season between May and August, especially the contest season June to July.
As a result, visitors often notice a weird mixture of warm South African hospitality and unbridled aggression. This can't be blamed, although nasty things have been known to happen.
J-Bay was originally a rustic hippie hangout surrounded by sand, shrubs and aloes. Surfers camped there in the late 60s and early 70s, trekking to the local farm for fresh water, often subsisting off the sea.
The early days of J-Bay ran parallel to those of Torquay, the town near Bells Beach, Australia. Out of both towns came surf dynasties founded from humble roots, such as Rip Curl, Billabong and Country Feeling.
But when you're in the water there, away from the brands, contests and commercial bluster of surfing, you can feel the magic. Sometimes, though, you have to try hard to keep cool, not to get spun out by the clash of clamouring crowds jostling for a slice of the pie.
Beneath you lies a slab of reef made from twisted volcanic rock. The beach is a shell collector's dream. The sea bustles with life; dolphins, shoals of fish, sea birds and whales, among a few. You're framed by vast beaches and distant mountains. The offshore gives a ruffled yet smooth texture to the ocean, and line upon line of grooved groundswells deliver cylinder after cylinder of perfect tubing walls.
It works best in a southwesterly swell that wraps into the bay. In terms of size, you can get perfect waves anywhere from 2' to 12', depending on swell direction. The swell can come up within hours from totally flat to 8' +. It's best in a southwesterly or westerly wind. The northwester, which is usually a good offshore wind for many east coast spots, is cross shore at J-Bay. It gives the sea a nasty bumpy texture, and locals call it the Devil's Wind.
In a solid 8+ swell, with the right conditions, you are more likely to ride all the way down the point to or even past Impossibles, even past the Point, if you pick up one of the bigger "sidewinders" that wrap around the point more to the left. The meat of the wave is further down and somehow this prevents it closing out when it hits Impossibles. However, it also commits you to pulling into one of the most awesome barrels of your life. As Impossibles approaches, locals or seasoned visitors will raise both arms in the air and point down the point. It's a signal to whoever is interested that the person is going for broke all the way down. Then it's time to build up speed by drawing speed lines near the top of the feathering wall. As you begin to reach critical mass, short of taking off into the air, you drop into the bowl and hang in for an eternity. Deep in the pit, the sunlight recedes until it becomes what seems a speck in front of you, like the exit to a round blue cave where daylight is a distant glare. Oh no, this is it, too deep! But hey, suddenly the entrance draws back towards you. It hovers once or twice, flirting with you, before peeling back over your head. You're in the sunlight. It's good to be alive. Some dudes at Tubes are staring. You don't care. You're shaking with sheer ecstasy. You kick out, even though you could have carried on. What's the point in surfing through the Point? You've just had the wave of your life. Time to get out, and walk all the way back up to Supers along the beach, about a 300-metre walk.
The flip side of Jay Bay's magic aura is the crudeness of building developments mushrooming everywhere. Ugly houses have hurt the old Jay Bay. The Supers carpark has shrunk to a single line of about eight cars. The famous aloes that lined the pristine bush along the point have been herded into a plantation as part of a dune reclamation project. Same thing happened at Bells. Hordes of foreign surfers clutching strong currency descend on Jay Bay to enjoy cheap surf holidays. They often stay for months on end, getting into the stoke of surfing one of the best waves on our planet. Treat this wave, and the locals, with respect, otherwise you will come off second best.
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Salad Bowls
At the end of Impossibles lies a short barrelling section called Salad Bowls. It's not really an official spot along the point, but some people refer to it as such. ****
Tubes
Fast breaking section past Salad Bowls and Impossibles. A classic wave that's slightly more forgiving, but not much. Shows the same superlative form as Supers, but not as fast. It is usually a bit bigger than further up the point. All the waves along this stretch are offshore in a South Westerly wind. *****
The Point
Further down from Supers, past Impossibles, Salad Bowls and Tubes, lies the Point. It's about two thirds of the way down the whole length of the point from the outside peak at Supertubes. It's a mellower version of Supers, but still walls up fairly fast and offers a couple of fun barrel sections. Gets perfect. Lacks the adrenal rush - and fierce competition - that you get further up the point. *****
Albatross
The last stop in a long line of sections along the point at Jay Bay. Some surfers have been known to surf all the way from Boneyards to, and through, Albatross. After that, you run out of ocean and it's physically impossible to surf further. Having said that, it's fair to say that the length of this ride could be about 1,2 kilometres. That's 1200 metres. Think about it. Two rides and you have ridden 2.4 kms. Albatross is a smaller and mellower version of Point. ****
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